Le Labo Santal 33 Review: Is the Iconic Woody Fragrance Worth It?
Share
If you're on the hunt for a clean and woody fragrance that manages to feel smooth and slightly edgy, Le Labo Santal 33 deserves a closer look.
With a blend that features sandalwood, papyrus, Virginia cedar, soft florals and leather, Santal 33 captures the warmth, depth and grounded sophistication people love about woody fragrances without smelling overly earthy or traditionally masculine. Instead, the woods evoke an arid and smooth feeling, the florals add an earthy dryness and the leather provides a subtle edge.
One of Le Labo's most recognizable fragrances, Santal 33 is the type of scent that feels understated and distinct at the same time. It’s polished, effortlessly cool and unisex, with a slight lean towards masculine.
Quick Summary
Overall: ★★★★
Best For: Everyday wear • Office • Date night • Signature scent
Gender: Unisex; slight masculine-leaning
Woody: 9/10
Earthy: 8/10
Creaminess: 4/10
Clean/Fresh: 4/10
Powderiness: 4/10
What Does Le Labo Santal 33 Smell Like?
Dry, smooth and woody with a soft, dry earthy quality.
Meet Santal 33.
The woods and papyrus are the most noticeable elements of the fragrance, working together to create Santal 33's signature refined woody and grounded character.
At the forefront, sandalwood and Virginia cedar establish the fragrance's woody foundation. The sandalwood brings a smooth and somewhat smokey air, while cedar adds a slightly drier, cleaner quality. Papyrus reinforces that dryness, giving the woods an earthy and unique texture.
Violet and iris, whose combined presence usually indicates a very powdery fragrance, play a background role in Santal 33, both softening the woods and adding to the drier quality of the papyrus and cedar. The florals aren’t particularly sweet or overtly floral either - they are pure texture for the blend.
Leather, which can be a very pronounced accord in blends, is present here, but is not loud and is very smooth, subtle and elegant. It’s the type of scent you’d experience walking into a chic and modern store that sells new leather jackets and coats vs. a tannery or store that sells more natural or less refined pieces of leather. It gives Santal 33 a subtle edge, while amber and cardamom provide a gentle warmth.
The result is an unusual balance: woody but clean, smooth and dry, powdery but not overly soft, and fresh without relying heavily on citrus or aquatic notes.
From a casual white tee and jeans to a crisp button-down or evening wear, Santal 33 works equally well in casual and more polished settings. It's the type of fragrance that smells put together without feeling like you're trying particularly hard.
It's worth noting that Santal 33 is infamous for one particularly divisive association: some people smell dill pickles. The combination of dry sandalwood, papyrus and other woody/green facets can read as sharp, briny or pickle-like to certain noses.
The Notes
Sandalwood, leather, papyrus, Virginia cedar, cardamom, violet, iris, amber
Is Le Labo Santal 33 Worth Buying?
MAYBE.
There's a reason Santal 33 has become one of Le Labo's most recognizable fragrances. It takes something as familiar as sandalwood and gives it a twist as unique as it is well-blended.
As a fragrance house, Le Labo is known for their unique and high quality blends, clean formulas and minimalist and artisanal branding. While Santal 33 is a beautiful fragrance that performs well and exudes nothing but elegance and refinement, it has also been on the market for 15 years. Remaining relevant at an elevated niche price point for this long in perfumery usually means two things - you have an amazing and timeless scent AND there are most likely inspirations of your fragrance at more affordable prices, many of which have had years to perfect their own formulas.
So is it worth buying?
If the artistry of fragrance is your main concern and you prefer to purchase the original creation from the brand and have the full Le Labo in-store experience, where they can mix the formula in front of you, then YES, Santal 33 is worth buying.
If smelling good at the best price point possible is your main concern, then you’d be best served by one of the better inspirations of Le Labo from a high quality house that specializes in inspired creation.
Still unsure? Don't take our word for it. Smell them side by side. Our Santal 33 This or That Set includes a 1ml sample of the original alongside a 1ml sample of its most highly-rated affordable inspirations, so you can decide for yourself whether the OG is worth the splurge.
Performance
Performance is another area where Le Labo Santal 33 delivers.
Longevity is great, easily lasting over 6 hours on skin and even longer on clothing. Projection is also strong, particularly during the first couple of hours. Santal 33 creates a noticeable scent bubble around the wearer and can easily be detected by those a few feet past arm’s length, before gradually settling closer to the skin later in the wear.
Is Le Labo Santal 33 Really a Unisex Fragrance?
YES.
While general consensus is that Santal 33 leans a bit masculine from the woods and leather, we’d recommend to any lovers of woody and dry scents that can be worn all year round.
Who Should Wear Le Labo Santal 33?
Santal 33 is an excellent choice if you're looking for:
- A different take on the usual creamy and smooth sandalwood
- A clean, woody everyday scent
- A truly unisex fragrance
- A powdery fragrance that isn't overly floral
- A signature scent with strong performance
- A smooth and refined leather accord
Similar Fragrances
Santal 33's popularity has made its particular style of green and dry sandalwood one of the most recognizable scent profiles in modern perfumery.
For those who enjoy the general Santal 33 DNA but find the original a little too dry, woody or masculine, there are several fragrances that take that familiar sandalwood style in a softer direction. Give No. 04 Bois de Balincourt by Maison Louis Marie (the perfume oil version) or Energetically New York Elixir by Zara a try.
These aren't Santal 33 dupes, but similar fragrances with a sweeter, more floral and feminine feel. Both dial down the woods while making the florals more prominent, leading to a softer overall feel.
Final Verdict
After spending time with Le Labo Santal 33, I understand how this fragrance developed such a recognizable identity and cult following.
Originally, I was in the camp of people who only smelled pickles from the fragrance and was actually shocked it received such high praise from so many. After waiting for the temperature to drop from the 80s and 90s of mid-summer to the 70s of early Fall and spending a little more time with the fragrance, acclimating my nose to this drier and smokier type of sandalwood, versus the sweeter and creamer version I am used to from my vanillas and gourmands, I changed my tune.
I began to notice it wasn’t pickles I smelled, but was the green papyrus and dry woods that were actually smooth and airy and clearly high quality. I then began to pick up on that comforting and cozy sleek leather accord and that warm amber and cardamom.
While this is still too far outside of my preferred scent profile for me to wear, I can absolutely see this being the dream scent of a woody fragrance lover and actually would thoroughly enjoy smelling it on said individual.
I apologize to Le Labo for ever doubting the vision.